Huber/Sime/eStock Photo; WALTER ZERLA/Cultura Limited/SuperStock
Tuscany
, rich with rolling landscapes, artistic legacy, signature
cuisine, and an unparalleled reverence for high culture, exemplifies the
romantic Italy of daydreams. Yet, in its dynamic small towns, earthy vineyards,
and unpretentious seaside resorts, Tuscany also epitomizes the
true
Italy.
As the birthplace of the Renaissance,
this lovely corner of central Italy could be said to have had more of an
impact on European culture than any other region. In other parts of
the world, culture may be considered an optional extra. Not so in
Tuscany, where it is at the root of everything. Ask around in any small
Tuscan hamlet and you’ll be surprised at the number of people who
care deeply about the floral aftertastes of sheep cheese, the correct
way to cut marble, and the nuances of a Gregorian chant.
This dedication to beauty and quality earned the relatively unknown
Tuscan town of Pistoia the country’s highest accolade — Capital of
Culture — in 2017. Pistoia spends almost double the national average
on local cultural initiatives, and it’s this obsessive attention to life’s
finer points that the award recognizes, and which small towns in
the area display in abundance. It comes from the region’s close-knit,
competitive past, when each
comune
(municipality) would conspire
to outdo its rivals, resulting in an embarrassment of cultural riches.
A FLOURISH OF ART
Take the town of Arezzo, 51 miles southeast of Florence and home
to a treasure trove of works by early Renaissance painter Piero della
Francesca. Until recently, Piero was seen as a lesser Italian master,
his naive, minimal style appearing primitive when compared with
BY PAULA HARDY
Towering cypress trees punctuate
the rolling Tuscan countryside.
RIGHT: Alabaster handicrafts
are an integral part of Volterra’s
history and pride.
LA
VERA
ITALIA
BY PAULA HARDY
58
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