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Huber/Sime/eStock Photo; WALTER ZERLA/Cultura Limited/SuperStock

Tuscany

, rich with rolling landscapes, artistic legacy, signature

cuisine, and an unparalleled reverence for high culture, exemplifies the

romantic Italy of daydreams. Yet, in its dynamic small towns, earthy vineyards,

and unpretentious seaside resorts, Tuscany also epitomizes the

true

Italy.

As the birthplace of the Renaissance,

this lovely corner of central Italy could be said to have had more of an

impact on European culture than any other region. In other parts of

the world, culture may be considered an optional extra. Not so in

Tuscany, where it is at the root of everything. Ask around in any small

Tuscan hamlet and you’ll be surprised at the number of people who

care deeply about the floral aftertastes of sheep cheese, the correct

way to cut marble, and the nuances of a Gregorian chant.

This dedication to beauty and quality earned the relatively unknown

Tuscan town of Pistoia the country’s highest accolade — Capital of

Culture — in 2017. Pistoia spends almost double the national average

on local cultural initiatives, and it’s this obsessive attention to life’s

finer points that the award recognizes, and which small towns in

the area display in abundance. It comes from the region’s close-knit,

competitive past, when each

comune

(municipality) would conspire

to outdo its rivals, resulting in an embarrassment of cultural riches.

A FLOURISH OF ART

Take the town of Arezzo, 51 miles southeast of Florence and home

to a treasure trove of works by early Renaissance painter Piero della

Francesca. Until recently, Piero was seen as a lesser Italian master,

his naive, minimal style appearing primitive when compared with

BY PAULA HARDY

Towering cypress trees punctuate

the rolling Tuscan countryside.

RIGHT: Alabaster handicrafts

are an integral part of Volterra’s

history and pride.

LA

VERA

ITALIA

BY PAULA HARDY

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